The new Hoxton hotel has three restaurants. Klein’s is the flagship on the ground floor. There’s a rooftop bar called Summerly. And there’s a terrace bar on the second floor called Backyard. All three spots are run by Jud Mongell (Five Leaves) and Zeb Stewart (Union Pool) which makes us hopeful and is a sign that the hotel chain is interested in appealing to the neighborhood. Klein’s opened this week with Summerly and Backyard opening soon.
The menu of the flagship restaurant Klein’s reflects the goal of being a gathering place with simple Americana dishes centered around a wood-burning grill, the idea being that “everyone has a grill in their backyard,” says chef Warren Baird of Five Leaves, who oversees the food here. Steak, a burger, and a charred Amish chicken are options, as is an entire section dedicated to grilled breads and accompaniments like steak tartare and little neck clams with chorizo.
The space, too, is intended to be casual and approachable for impromptu meals, whether alone or with a crew. More than two dozen seats of the restaurant are around an open kitchen, where a Molteni cooking suite (the “Lamborghini of cooking equipment,” Baird says) sits. It’s meant for solo diners or couples. A bar in the middle of the space has plenty of seats too, while chairs with floral cushions that line the sunny area look more like they belong in someone’s living room than in a restaurant.
That same homey floral pattern finds its way to the barstools at Summerly, the rooftop bar with views of the Manhattan skyline that will open soon. And Backyard, which also has outdoor space, will have ping pong tables and fare like hot dogs and pimento cheese dip. As its name suggests, this seasonal space is supposed to be like a party in someone’s backyard.
“We’re hoping it becomes a community gathering place,” Stewart says. “The neighborhood used to have lots of little places where people hung out. It’s where we met each other; Jud and I met each other more organically. We’re hoping [this place] becomes a neighborhood hang.”
Klein’s is now open from 7 a.m. to midnight daily, with the bar open until 1 a.m. on Thursday, Friday, and Saturday. Backyard and Summerly will open soon with seasonal hours.
Klein’s at The Hoxton
97 Wythe Ave. between North 9th and North 10th streets, Williamsburg